2193 



ay 1 




INSTRUCTIONS 



IN 



Hat Cleaning, Renovating 
and Blocking 

Given by an Expert Hatter of Long Experience 




ISSUED BY 



THE HATTERS SUPPLY HOUSE 

CHICAGO, ILLINOIS 



INSTRUCTIONS 



IN 



Hat Cleaning, Renovating 
and Blocking 

Given by an Expert Hatter of Long Experience 




ISSUED BY 

THE HATTERS SUPPLY HOUSE 

CHICAGO, ILLINOIS 



INSTRUCTIONS IN HAT CLEANING, RENOVATING 

AND BLOCKING 



<5^ 



1 — General Information 

The hat cleaning and renovating business is yet in its 
infancy and is constantly developing. A man will not throw 
away his hat worn a short time when he knows that he can 
have it made NEW for a half or a third of the cost. There is 
another source of income for one who knows and is well 
fixed to do this work. There are thousands of the highest 
quality hats thrown away. You can pick them up near you 
right and left. Every hat store is full of them and hardly 
knows what to do with them. A hat, unlike clothes or shoes, 
is not worn out ; it only gets soiled, sweated, and out of shape. 
It can therefore be renovated many times, and become prac- 
tically NEW. Such hats, renovated, can be easily sold to 
good advantage. 

The difficulty in this work is that it requires knowledge, 
experience, and a variety of tools. It requires some capital 
to start with. You can do nothing without tools. You must 
spend at least from $65.00 to $ 1 00.00 to start with. But you 
will have to keep on continually supplying and equipping 
your shop if you want to make a success. The more tools 
you will have, the better and quicker you will be able to pro- 
duce your work. 

We advise in connection with this course to study thor- 
oughly our catalogue, where you will get an idea of the 
various tools and trimmings used. On page 31 of the cata- 
logue you will find a condensed list of tools that you must 
have to start with. This is only in case you can't afford to get 
some more tools in the beginning; but if you do, our advice 
would be rather to get all sizes of blocks instead of skipping 
sizes. As you proceed along this course you will see the use 
and necessity of each tool, but you may get along at first 
without some of them, which you will procure later as your 
business progresses. But if vpu Q ^an start at once well 



2 ©C1A599842 



Some Staple Styles of Soft Hats 





Trava Alpine 



Auto Tourist 




Graeco 



Columbia 




Dakota 



Pocket 




Big Four 



Trooper 







equipped, you will do much better and be more sure of 
success. 

What concerns the knowledge necessary, we endeavor to 
explain herewith in smallest detail every phase of the work 
and give you the benefit of many years of experience, not 
only of our own, but of the best hatters in the country. As 
for your experience, we have no doubt that you will get it 
after practicing a little according to directions given and 
using a little of your own ingenuity. Besides, we are always 
ready to explain and give more information on any point 
desired. 

We would advise beginners not to order their outfit until 
they have gone through this course of instructions, as they 
will then be better able to make their selection of tools ac- 
cording to the amount they are willing to invest. Some 
people think that with one block and some cleaning material 
they can do all hats. This is absurd. While we realize that 
it is impossible for a beginner to equip himself with all pos- 
sible styles of blocks and flanges, yet he must confine himself 
to such styles that are mostly in use, namely: — Columbia, 
Fedora, Greaco, Stiff Hat (Round and Square Crown), 
Panama and Straw. As to Flanges, we would recommend 
Flange No. 1 4 as the most useful. Other style Flanges you 
may order later as the requirements arise. 

2 — Prices Charged for Cleaning Hats 

When customer brings hat, see the condition of it. If not 
badly soiled a plain DRY CLEANING will suffice without 
change of trimmings (band, binding and sweat leather), 
unless customer wants such change. The price of such a 
job is usually from $1 .00 to $1 .25. But if hat is in bad con- 
dition a thorough scouring is necessary which cannot be done 
without removing trimmings first. For such work is usually 
charged $1 .50, or $1 .75, — that is, if same leather and band is 
put in ; in case new trimming is wanted make an additional 
charge of 75 cents and up, according to the quality and width 
for each band, binding and sweat leather, or from $2.00 to 



J 





No. 5 2. Columbia Soft Hat Block No . 51. Fedora Soft Hat Block 





No. 54 Graeco Soft Hat Block No. 55. Round Crown Stiff Hat 

Block 





No. 5 6. Full Crown Stiff Hat Block No. 5 7 



Square Crown Panama 
Block 





No. 5 8. Straw Hat Block 



Flange No. 14. Turban 



$2.50 for one whole job, although you can really afford to 
do it cheaper. 

3 — Cleaning of Soft Felt Hats, Black and Colored 

First brush hat well, then clean it with Benzine or 
Gasoline. 

Various ways and methods are employed by hatters in 
doing the cleaning, as the case requires. 

If hat is not badly soiled and the lower part of crown at 
the crease of the brim is not perspired, the easiest way is to 
block hat first, that is, to pull on hat on the proper size and 
style of block, as described in the next section. When this 
is well done dip sponge or brush in benzine and rub tip and 
sides of crown evenly in a circular way, otherwise, one spot 
may be cleaned more than another and some streaks be 
left. Then clean brim same way on both sides. Leave it 
on block to dry, then press and finish hat as described in the 
succeeding sections. Don't wet hat too much, only just as 
the occasion may require, according to condition of hat. 

In case hat is perspired at crease of crown and brim, you 
cannot very well clean that part when it is fitted on block. 
It will be done better by rubbing with brush or sponge dipped 
in cleaning fluid while holding hat in hand, or you may put 
it on a block one size smaller than hat and rub tip and sides 
of crown as previously described. Then take it off and clean 
the crease of crown and brim. 

In case hat is badly soiled and perspired, in order to give 
it a thorough cleaning take out sweat leather and band and 
soak it over night in cleaning fluid; this will take out all the 
perspiration or other substance and will clean the hat through 
and through. When taken out, give it a little rubbing with 
sponge and hang to dry. 

Some hatters do the scouring by putting hat in hot water 
and washing it thoroughly with Castile Soap. 

For taking out grease or other spots use Chloroform, or 
make preparation as recipe in section 18. Turpentine is well 
recommended for some spots. For cream, milk or blood 
spots only hot water should be used. 



r 



% 



For light hats do not use the same brush or sponge that 
has been used for black hats, because it may affect the color. 

4— Blocking, Steaming and Pressing of Hats 

After hat is cleaned and dried proceed with the block- 
ing, — that is, the process of pulling hat on block and fitting it 
on tightly and smoothly so that no wrinkle is left any 
place. To do this the fur must be softened on steam. 

If sweat leather is not taken out, open it at joint where 
the bow is sewed on and turn leather out. Then pull hat 
on proper size and style of block, hold over steam for a little 
while and keep on pulling and fitting hat on block. Repeat 
this process several times, working hat with your hands until 
it is all well fitted. 

The block should rest all the while on the "Block Spin- 
ner." In order to make the pulling and fitting on block 
easier, and more straight and uniform, there is a little wooden 
tool called "Puller Down." Put it on brim, hold together with 
brim and pull down. 




No. 14 0. Runner Down 



No. 142. Hatters' Shell Iron 



When hat is all fitted to block and all wrinkles straight- 
ened out, tie a specially made "Blocking Cord" at the bottom 
of the crown near the brim. In order to have cord tight 
around crown, tie it somewhat higher up on crown then push 



^\ 



it down with a little stick made for that purpose, called 
"Runner Down." 

Now use pressing cloth and press with hot iron all over 
tip and sides of crown. For pressing cloth use Cotton Flan- 
nel with hairy side on hat. As for the iron, there is a specially 
designed "Hatters Iron" with sharp edges to cut the sharp 
crease of crown and brim. 

There is a special knot hatters use on Blocking Cord; 
one end is with a loop, the other is inserted in loop. To 
tighten: one end is pulled; to loosen, the other end is pulled. 
When ordering Blocking Cord remind us and we will make a 
sample knot. Have one piece of cord about a yard long for 
use on block, and another about 1 Yl yards long for use on 
flange, with knots made up. Same cords may be used for a 
long time. Soak cord in water when new. 

For steaming of hats there are various styles of kettles 
and boilers used; but if not desirable to go to much expense, 
we would suggest the following: Take a deep pail or cylin- 
der about 20 inches deep and about 8 to 9 inches in diameter. 
Fill it with water to about 6 inches; insert inside of pail a 
perforated lid to rest on side pieces about 2 inches above the 
water. Have a tightly fitted cover for the top to keep steam 
in when not using. Place pail on gas or other stove to have 
water boil. When steaming hat take off top cover and let 
brim rest on top edges. 

5— Finishing of Hats 

After hat has been blocked and pressed well, take off the 
nap that was raised by the steam with "Pouncing Paper"; 
use coarser paper for a poorer quality hat and finer paper for 
a finer quality. What are mostly in use are 4 o-a (coarse), 
5 o-a (medium), 6 o-a (fine), or even 7 o-a (still finer). 
Take piece of paper between your thumb and forefinger and 
rub hat — with the grain — (not against the grain), till it is 
all smoothened. Take care not to rub too much because body 
of hat may be injured. In some cases the pouncing will 
remove some spots that were left. 



Now brush crown with "Penetrating Brush,'' then press 
and smoothen with "Wood Heart Tolliker" or "Duck Bill 
Tolliker" till it gets very smooth. After this is done well 
"Lure" or polish hat. See section 6. 




No. 122. Penetrating Brush 





No. 13 9. Duck- 
bill Tolliker 



No. 10S. Heart Tolliker 



No. 128. Slip Stick 




No. 112. Foot Tolliker 



No. 15 9. Flange Stand 



Now take hat off the block. To do this easily, there is a 
"Slip Stick" made for that purpose. It is a sharp thin wooden 
knife that separates hat from block. Then flange brim. The 
flanging is done in this manner: Take proper flange, con- 
forming with size of hat and width of brim and place on a 
"Flange Stand"; put brim of hat on flange, crown down- 
ward, put pressing cloth on, tie it around with Blocking 
Cord and press with hot Iron. Steaming of brim is not neces- 
sary, unless you want to make brim wider. Then you have 
to steam brim and pull it out. 



Vh. 



In hat factories and in some well-equipped hat cleaning 
establishments Sand Bags and Flanging Pans are used for 
the purpose of flanging brim. 




Sand Bag Flanging Outfit 

The Sand Bag is tied to the Flanging Pan which hangs on 
rope with pulley to raise and lower it. The Sand Bag is 
placed on hot Hat Baker to heat it. It is then raised and 
placed on brim and flange and kept so for about 5 to 1 
minutes. This shapes and flanges brim perfectly. The brim 
is heated on Baker before the above operation. The Baker 
is filled with steam heated water and is always kept hot. 

There is also a special designed set of irons called "L. 
Special Curling Irons" which may take the place of some 
flanges. See our catalogue. 

Take hat off the flange and smoothen brim inside with 
either Heart or Foot Tolliker, according to the shape of the 
brim, and make with its sharp edge, the sharp crease of crown 
and brim. Then curl brim that needs curling (see section 



10 



fl||l!piijp!ii"i:' :: :: v ' 'p'!"' 1 "''" iiiin^'iuini'ii""^ 





No. 104. Curling Boards 





No. 160 Band Blocks 



No. 103. Brim Iron 



7). Trim hat (see sections 1 2 and 13). After trimming put 
it again on flange and press as before. To bring brim and 
curl in proper shape, finish on the Curling or Set Board, 
shaping out curl with Hand and Foot Tolliker. The small 
Iron No. 103 is also very handy for this. There are "Band 
Blocks" that are put in hat to keep it in shape all the time 
while curling, setting and finishing the brim. They also help 
to press the brim and make the sharp cut of crease of crown 
and brim. When brim is finished, brush hat with fine soft 
brush and it is done. 

The Finishing Bench is very adaptable for the purpose 
of pressing brim, but the beginner may get along without it. 
(See our catalogue.) 




No. 106. Finishing Bench 



No. 10 5. Bottom Boards 



The Curling Board and Bottom Board are for the purpose 
of shaping the brims of various style hats. There are straight 
and curved Bottom Boards. But we will not recommend 



v. 



li 



either the one or the other till the beginner gets used to his 
work. Then he knows himself what he wants. 

6— Luring 

The Luring of felt hats is done in this manner: Take 
some medium weight cloth, like usual toweling linen, make 
of it pad, or cushion, about 6 inches by 4 inches, stuff with 
cotton until about 1 J/2 inches or 2 inches thick. Rub in a little 
(not too much) Luring Grease on one side of pad, apply it 
to a hot polished iron for a second and polish hat with it, 
rubbing hat with pad — always "with the grain." Repeat 
the appliance to hot iron and rubbing every second, till a 
fine polish is effected. 

There are special stoves for luring purposes. 




No. 120 One Light Luring Stove 





No. 121. Combination 2-Light 
Luring and Heating Stove 




No. 16 2. Rope Curl Shackle 



No. 141. "Ideal"' Shackle with 
Detachable Handle 





No. 13 6. Jersey Shackle 
Made in % inch 



No. L37. Combination Shackle. Made in 
a variety oMvnlths and styles. 



12 



r=- 



The grease used for luring, is Crude Oil for black hats, 
and Vaseline for light colored hats. We sell a special grease 
made for this purpose, good for both black and light hats. 

Have two pads, one for black and one for light colored 
hats. 

7 — Curling 

The curling of the brim is done with Curling Iron, or as 
it is commonly called "Shackle" (see our catalogue). There 
are various sizes of Shackles for the different sizes of curls 
on hats. The sizes mostly in use are Yl in., Y& in. and % in. 

The Shackle is heated before using, like any pressing 
iron. Moisten both sides of brim to be curled with sponge 
and go over with Curling Iron till curl is well made. 

If the place curled thus becomes shiny hold it over steam 
for a little while and the shine will come off; or rub lightly 
with Pouncing Paper. 

We would not advise beginners to undertake the curl- 
ing of a stiff hat, as it requires skill and much experience. 

If brim of hat is too wide and customer wants to have it 
rounded off, there is a special tool for that purpose called 
"Rounding Jack" (see our catalogue), with which you can 
cut around the brim evenly to any dimension wanted. A 
knife goes with this tool, and on seeing it you can easily 
understand how to operate it and set it to the proper size you 
want to have the brim. 




i. 



No. 118. Spring Rounding Jack for Cutting Brims 



13 



8 — Stiffening of Hats 

Felt hats are stiffened with Shellac, but the "cutting" and 
preparing of the shellac requires experience and knowledge 
and as the need of stiffening comes very seldom to Cleaners 
and Renovators, it is rather advisable to get some ready 
made. A pint of such stiffening may last for a long time. It 
costs only little, so it does not pay to bother with making it 
yourself. Directions are furnished with it. It is only for 
stiffening brims. 

For stiffening of crown, we would recommend "Rub- 
ber Paste" or "Gum Tragacanth," dissolved. Apply lightly 
with brush inside crown before blocking. 

For stiffening of Straws and Panamas see sections 1 4 
and 15. 

9 — Dyeing and Coloring of Hats 

An old hat can be dyed to no other color but black. For 
dyeing I dozen hats take J/i pound black Aniline and 1 pound 
Glauber Salt, boil these in water sufficient for 1 2 hats to swim 
freely, not to be cramped. Stir well till all is dissolved. Put 
in hats, boil for an hour, then add Yl ounce Sulphuric Acid. 
Boil 1 5 minutes more, keep on stirring hats to swim freely. 
Take out hats and dry. 

We would not advise beginners to undertake dyeing of 
hats because the dyeing will bring hat all out of shape and 
it is difficult to restore again to shape. 

Several attempts were made by chemists to procure a 
dye to dye felt hats cold, that is, without boiling process. 
Some such materials are offered for sale, but so far none of 
them have been found to be good. 

For restoring a hat that is faded a little there are Finishing 
Powders for each color (see catalogue) . Directions are given 
with each carton. The best way to get the proper color is 
to have about six different main colors and mix two or three 
colors together to get just the shade you want. 

Straw hats, Ladies' and Mens', can be easily dyed to any 
color with such ready prepared Straw Dyes. Just apply an 
even coating of this dye stuff with brush. No boiling neces- 
sary. 

14 



10 — Telescoping of Hat 

Those who may not know what a telescope hat is, we re- 
fer to illustrations. A Telescope Block consists of 2 pieces — 




No. 90. Telescope Block and Hat Made With It 

the lower part, on which hat is put and the upper part, with 
which the round crease or fold is made. Two sizes ffi/% and 
7 may be sufficient for a beginner, as the 6^8 can be used 
also for a 6% and 6^/g, the 7 can be used also for a 7|/s and 
7]/4. Of course, if one can afford to have 2 sizes more a 
better job can be made. But one size can always be skipped. 
Put hat on lower part of block and press the upper part on 
slowly and evenly to any depth wanted. Take off upper part 
and press crown and edge with hot iron, on cloth. Then lure 
it while on block and hat is done. 

A telescope can also be made by hand in the following 
manner: First block hat on Block No. 53, (full crown soft), 
and proceed as in sections 4 and 5. Take off hat, bend in 




No. 53. Full Crown Soft Hat 



15 



crown evenly to any depth desired. Turn over hat, press out 
inside of crown by hand, or, still better, with a small hot iron. 
The small iron No. 1 03 is very handy for this. 

11— Trimming of Hat 

A new sweat leather is fitted in hat in this manner : Place 
hat on crown, brim up. Fit in leather in hat, the highest or mid- 
dle of curve of leather in the front middle of hat. Place both 
ends, which are usually longer than the size of hat, one end 
over the other and cut through both ends with one cut with 
scissors, right at the back middle of hat. After cutting 
both ends together they will meet one another perfectly, no 
matter whether the cut has been made straight or not. Now, 
pull about J/2 inch of reed out of one end and insert it in the 
other end which has been left just so much vacant of reed. 
Take a leather sticker and stick evenly alongside of both ends 
on the back of leather. The leather is now ready to be sewed 
in. Make invisible large stitches. Take any haf and see how 
leather is sewed in. 

There are specially cut and reeded leathers for various 
style hats, but we shall refer you for that to our catalogue. 

For sewing on of band and bow, just a little examination 
of a trimmed hat will do as the best explanation. 

For bands, all widths are used from a 4" (ligne), up to 
a 27". For a binding mostly 6", 9" or 10" is used; 
sometimes 8'" or 1 















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The binding on soft hats is sewed on this way: Pin one 
end of binding right in the back middle of brim, pull it tightly 
ail around brim till starting point is reached, allow small 
piece for the seam and cut off. Take out pin and snap both 
ends together with invisible stitch. Sew on, half on each 
side, seam on back middle, by hand or machine. Observe 
kind of stitch on trimmed hat. 



16 



12— Stiff Hat Binding 

Stiff hat binding is put on with reversed stitch. To ex- 
plain this is a little difficult but we will try. After binding is 
fitted to brim and snapped together same way as above on 
soft hat, sew it on with reversed stitch. Suppose the brim is 
not curled but straight and a man is wearing the hat. Then 
one side of brim faces heaven. We will call this side "A." 
The other side faces earth. We will call this side "B". Now, 
the binding has also two sides, one is the inside or BACK, the 
other is the face outside. Now, place the fitted binding around 
CROWN, BACK SIDE UP (see that snapped seam is in back 
middle). Sew the edge of binding towards brim to side "A" 
of brim all around. Then turn over (reverse) binding over 
edge of brim and sew the other edge to side "B" of brim. 
After this explanation observe a trimmed hat and you will 
understand thoroughly. 

There are black stiff hat bindings in 1 1'" and 12" with 
ready stitched edge; that is, the outside edge. It looks as 
if it has been sewed on hat with a fine stitch, while in reality 
it is sewed on with large invisible stitches. A certain Mr. 
Clark of New York has invented a machine for stitching 
stiff hat binding that gathers in the edge, so as to adhere 
tightly to brim. This stitch is called "Clarked." It is quite 
expensive but it makes the binding lay nicely. There are 
also stitched bindings that the factory makes while weaving 
and those are also good but not quite as the "Clarked." 

13— Stiff Felt Hats 

A stiff felt hat cannot be scoured. It must be dry cleaned, 
same process as soft, only that the brim cannot be pressed on 
Flange, but is pressed and shaped with Iron or Brass Foot 
Toliker on the Curling Board. The luring will finish up the 
stiff hat very well. 

If brim of stiff hat is badly soiled a solution of Ammonia 
will clean it well. Mix about 2 teaspoonsful of pure Ammonia 



17 



to a pint of water and rub with Bristle Brush. This will also 
clean band and binding very well. 

If crown is broken or wrinkled, but without hole, steam 
it, block and press the same as soft hat. If place is very soft 
and flimsy apply some Shellac Stiffening to that spot same 
way as brim of soft hat, described in section 8. 

If there is a hole in stiff or soft hat there is no way to 
repair it. 

14 — Panama Hats 

The hat should first be cleaned well. The best material 
with which to clean a Panama is either Citric Acid dissolved 
in water, or a light solution of Oxalic Acid, say a teaspoonful 
to a pint of water. Care must be taken not to have it too 
strong, as it may injure the hat. Scrub hat with Bristle Brush 
or sponge quickly and effectively. Wash off with cold water 
so that none of the Acid be left on hat. Taste with tongue 
to see if sour. Then wash off again so that no acid is left, 
because it may injure hat. The safest way to clean Panama 
is with Castile soap, using stiff Bristle Brush. This way is a 
little harder and takes longer than with the use of the acids, 
but it is much safer. 

When Panama is cleaned with band on, the acid may turn 
band to brown. In such case wet the spot with Ammonia or 
Vinegar which will restore it to its original black. 

After hat is cleaned well, block it in the usual way, as 
described in section 4, either while hat is wet and have it 
dry on block before dry pressing, or dry hat first and block 
on steam. The first way will take a little longer, but the 
blocking will be better done ; the second way is good for quick 
work. Now treat it with "Bleaching Powder" or with 
"Panamafillo" which bleaches and stiffens hat at the 
same time (we sell both of these), according to directions 
given on label of each of the above mentioned materials. 
After the bleaching is done, proceed with curling and flang- 
ing of brim and trimming, same as felt hat. 

If Panama needs stiffening use some Gum Tragacanth 
or X-White Glue dissolved in warm water. Apply lightly 



18 








No. 91. Creased and Dented Alpine with Creaser and Spring Dent Clamp 






INSTANT 

HAT- CLEANER 

THE HATTERS' SUPPLY HOUSE • CHICAGO 




Some Well Tried and Proven Brands 



19 



with sponge on soft spot before blocking. If not stiff enough 
apply again; or mix the Gum Tragacanth with the Bleach 
Powder and hat will be bleached and stiffened at the same 
time. 

For crease on crown of Panama hat, there are special 
made blocks. But they are very expensive, and we will there- 
fore advise the following: Take piece of blocking cord, nail 
one end at the bottom of block, at the very middle of the 
front, and the other end also at the bottom of block at the 
very middle of back, pulling it on tightly, and you will have a 
nice crease, as if block had been made so. 

If perspiration stains are left on Panama that the Oxalic 
Acid solution did not remove, rub the spots with Benzine and 
if this will not help, that is, if so badly perspired, soak hat in 
Benzine for about 1 2 hours. When taken out give it a good 
rubbing with brush. 

There is another bleaching process with Perborate of 
Sodium which is strongly recommended, although not much 
in use by hatters who do quick work. 

Dissolve one ounce of Perborate of Sodium in 9J/£ § a l~ 
Ions lukewarm water. The hat or hats are first well brushed 
with soap and, after thorough rinsing, given a bath of strength 
and temperature mentioned above, and left in for twenty-four 
hours or longer if necessary. That the hats should be kept 
below the surface all of this time is quite essential, because the 
fiber of the material is quite likely to become tender if the 
oxygen of the air attacks it during this bleaching process. 
The bath may then be heated to 50 degrees C, or 1 20 degrees 
F. This simply hastens bleaching. Rinse the hat in weak 
Oxalic Acid on removal from the bleach and then give it a 
thorough rinsing in water. Have it dried and treated with 
the Bleach Powder same as above. 

Bangkok hats are cleaned with a weak solution of Oxalic 
Acid. They do not require any Bleach Powder or other 
bleaching material. To produce a gloss use varnish as 
described in next section on straw hats. To stiffen use 



20 



Gelatine; — dissolve a little in hot water and apply a thin 
coating inside of hat before blocking and pressing. 

15 — Straw Hats 

Straw hats are usually cleaned with Oxalic Acid same as 
Panamas. Use teaspoonful to saucer of water, add one tea- 
spoonful of Sugar of Lead. Dissolve the above in warm 
water, but it can be used also when cold. When hat is sun- 
burnt, better boil the above solution and scrub hat with stiff 
bristle brush with the hot solution. 

Sodium Peroxide is well recommended for straw hats 
that are badly sunburnt, but it is necessary to exercise caution 
when used as it hisses and gives off considerable heat when 
dissolved in water. If brought suddenly into contact with a 
large quantity of water it is liable to produce an explosion. 
Also, take care not to touch it with bare hands. 

The best method of procedure is as follows : to one pint 
of boiling water add about 2 ounces of Sodium Peroxide, not 
all at once, but add it by degrees and when hot scrub hat with 
it. Wash off with cold water. Give hat a sponge rubbing 
with Oxalic Acid and rinse off well with cold water. 

If straw hat needs stiffening or sizing, use Gum Traga- 
canth or Gelatine dissolved in warm water. Apply lightly 
with sponge. After hat has been well cleaned, stiffened and 
dried, block it in the usual way, and press. Don't use very 
hot iron for straws and panamas. Don't use bleaching 
powders for straw hats. 

To produce a fine gloss on straw hat use Varnish, same as 
is sold in all paint stores. Get the lightest you can, but don't 
put on too much of it. Just dip paint brush in varnish and 
squeeze it out, then go over hat very lightly. This should be 
done after hat is blocked and finished. 

If you wish the Gum Tragacanth or Gelatine sizing to be 
of lighter color add to it a little of the Oxalic Acid Solution. 

16— White Felt Hats 

Brush hat well and clean with Benzine or Gasoline, same 
as black, and when thoroughly dry rub in Prepared Chalk 



21 



or Magnesia all over. Distribute well and evenly with pene- 
trating brush. Dust off. Steam and block, as in section 4. 
The steam will freshen up the color. 

While we have given herein the best methods hatters 
usually use for white felt, at the same time we do not guaran- 
tee that either the Prepared Chalk or the Magnesia will always 
be good to cover up all spots, especially rain spots. All de- 
pends on the quality of the felt. In a poorer quality felt, the 
rain drop goes through and through and is very hard to eradi- 
cate or cover up. Many ways and means have been tried by 
hatters but without effect in some bad cases. 

Although we believe that the Prepared Chclk or Magnesia 
treatment is the most practical, and in most cases the hat will 
come out very good, yet you may try another method some 
hatters use, namely: Take some fine corn meal; mix it to 
a thin paste with Benzine or Gasoline and rub hat with it all 
over; when dry, brush it off. Some hatters advocate this to 
be even better than the former method, inasmuch as it will 
keep the color more permanently. 

As a fine job on white felt is sometimes only a matter of 
chance, hatters usually do not guarantee job to their cus- 
tomers, while some refuse this work altogether. 




No. 15 3. Wire scratch brush set in 
rubber pad for velours and beaver hats 

17 — Velour and Beaver Hats, Black and other 
Colors, except White 

First brush hat well with "Stiff Bristle Brush" or if there 
are any lumps of some foreign substance use "Scratch Card" 
made for that purpose. Then proceed with the cleaning. 

The cleaning of black beaver and velour or other colors 
except white, is usually done by steam. Steam hat well all 
over through the spout of a kettle till hat is all clean. Have 
the kettle well heated and covered so that a good force of 
steam comes out of the spout. However, as a beginner may 



22 



not steam hat well enough we would advise to give hat a 
Benzine, or better, an Alcohol cleaning before steaming. 

Next, block hat same as felt hat and finish up with "Soft 
Hat Finishing Brush," sprinkling the hat with some Alcohol 
till it is smoothened all over. If hat looks dull after that, 
you can lure it same as felt described in section 6, but care 
must be taken not to have too much grease on luring pad 
and not to make hat too shiny. Comb beaver with Aluminum 
Comb and blow on fur to make it nice and fluffy. 

18 — White Beaver Hats 

There are two methods to clean white beavers. First 
method : Clean hat thoroughly with Alcohol after it has been 
dusted off well. Then steam and block it, but take care that 
block or flange is well cleaned of dark substance that may 
have remained from some black hat. 

Now, rub thoroughly all over hat with cake of Magnesia 
Carbonate, and put hat in an airtight box for about 1 2 hours. 
Then brush it with a stiff bristle brush, distributing and rub- 
bing Magnesia all over, then dust off. This process can also 
be used for White Felt. 

Second Method: Apply Peroxide of Hydrogen all over 
hat. Then apply weak solution of Ammonia all over. Then 
wash it out with weak solution of lukewarm soap water (use 
white soap). All this is done in immediately successive opera- 
tions, one after another, with a sponge not wetted too much, 
so as not to bring hat out of shape. Now dry hat thoroughly, 
then steam it and block. Steam it again to restore nap to its 
fluffy condition. 

The first method is easier while the second method is 
much better and must be used when customer is very par- 
ticular. But the second method is quite difficult and risky, 
especially for a beginner. For if hat is wetted too much it 
will come out of shape so badly that it will be hard to restore 
again. If Ammonia is too strong it will change beaver into 
a reddish color. If Peroxide is not well distributed all over, 
the Ammonia will cause spots. We would therefore caution 



23 



cleaners not to use the second method except only in such 
cases where it is absolutely necessary, and this at customers* 
risk. 

19 — Silk or Opera Hat Renovating 

First brush hat thoroughly (going with the grain) then 
clean it with benzine or gasoline using soft brush or sponge. 
Allow it to dry. 





No. 143. Potance Frame and Block 



No. 145. Tip Stand 




No. 109 Potance Iron 

Now, screw "Potance Arm" (see our catalogue), to a 
table or bench. Adjust the "Potance Block" to the Arm. 
This block has two sides, one with narrow curve the other 
with wide curve. When adjusting see that the wide curved 
side is up. Place hat on side which is conforming to shape of 
block, and rub it vigorously (going with the grain) with a hot 
Veleur; this is a specially made Veleuring plush pad. Con- 
tinue luring until hat is all smooth and shiny. 



24 



Turn hat over and do other side likewise. Now, reverse 
block with narrow side up and proceed with same process on 
both front and back of hat. If necessary, before luring press 
with hot "Potance Iron" (see our catalogue), putting a clean 
canvas cloth on hat dampening it a little. Next, press 
brim with warm "Brim Iron" using a clean canvas cloth 
dampened slightly. Then brush brim and lure it same as 
above. 

To fix brim in the desired shape, heat it slightly over a 
stove, lay it flat on the Curling Board and, while warm, con- 
form the brim to the shape of the Board by pressing it vigor- 
ously with both thumbs. 

Now, fix tip of crown. Place it on "Tip Stand" and do 

the luring with same hot pad as described above. To make 

the sharp edge of tip, press the hot luring pad against edge of 

'Tip Stand" till it is cooled off; continue this operation all 

around tip till it is all done. 

20 — Recipes for Cleaning Materials 

As a good cleaning material the following is recom- 
mended: Pure Benzole, Grain or Denatured Alcohol, equal 
parts. 

For removing grease or perspiration spots the following 
is recommended: Ether, Ammonia, Benzole, Alcohol and 
Chloroform. Mix about equal parts. 

Tetrachloride of Carbon is well recommended as an excel- 
lent solvent of all spots of fats, oils, pitch, tar, wax, rubber, 
etc., inasmuch as it is very penetrating and does not leave any 
rings. It can be mixed with Alcohol, Chloroform, Turpen- 
tine and Ether. 

Sometimes when hat is ironed with rusty iron some rust 
stains may be left. In such case remove the rust with Potas- 
sium Binoxalate. Use about as much as the point of a table 
knife will hold to one-eighth pint of water stirring well until 
dissolved. Touch the stains with solution, then rinse well in 
one warm and two cold waters. If stains do not disappear on 
first application repeat the process. 



9,Z 



Do not apply any of the above mentioned materials with 
anything that is of a different color than the hat being 
cleaned, as it may stain it. 

If by using any of the above mentioned spotting materials 
the color of hat is destroyed restore it with Finishing Powders. 

The use of each tool has been given in its place in the 
foregoing instructions. Yet there are some tools which were 
not mentined but are necessary and important although not 
used so often. These are : 





V;- 



No. 116. Groove Tolliker No. 111. Front and Rear Tolliker 

Groove Tolliker: for making a small curl on brim. On 
seeing it you will know how to use it. It should be heated 
before using. It has two grooves, a wider and a narrower ac- 
cording to the size of curl you wish to make. 

Front and Rear Tolliker: for such hats that have a large 
curl on the sides but very small on the front and rear. 

Set Sticks : they are for stretching hat in length and width, 
or regulating the length and width. They are especially 
adapted for stiff straw hats and felts for conforming hat to 
shape of head. 

Tip Stand: the use of this tool has been mentioned in 
section 1 9. It is also good for making the sharp edge of tip 
of straw hat and to press and straighten tip. 

The depths of blocks are not very important for reno- 
vators, although it is easier to work with a block whose depth 
conforms with depth of hat. But it is almost impossible for 
a renovator to be supplied with all possible depths. We carry 
in stock the following styles in the usual depths: 



"2-6 



Columbia Blocks in 6 inch. 

Fedora Blocks in 6 inch. 

Graeco Blocks in 5 inch. 

Full Crown Soft Blocks in 6 inch. 

Panama Blocks in 5 and 5 J/4 inch. 

Stiff Blocks in 5 J/4 inch. 

Straw Blocks in 4 inch. 

Any special block desired can be made, but the above are 
the most suitable. See our catalogue for sizes of Blocks and 
Flanges. 

Any other article listed in catalogue is illustrated and an 
explanation of its use given. You can determine for yourself 
whether you need it or not. 

•t* *I* •!• *5c* 

We have endeavored to give all details and particulars we 
could think of. Yet we may have left out some small detail. 
We invite our patrons to question us on any point. We 
will gladly furnish the information desired. 

We also beg our patrons to let us know how they succeed 
with their work, as their success will gratify us very much. 

Send your communications and orders to 

THE HATTERS' SUPPLY HOUSE 



404 South Wells Street 



Chicago, 111. 




No. 151. Steam Kettle 



v.. 



27 



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